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This mission has been a long time coming for me. Almost a year in the past I left my windows down during a reasonably spectacular thunderstorm (accidentally pressed the unlock button on my key in my pocket whereas I used to be strolling away from the automobile and both home windows and the sunroof opened), and attributable to some reasonably drastic measures on my part to dry out the automobile the only lasting damage was that I now had a seatbelt and airbag warning light on my dashboard. I used to be fairly shortly in a position to find out that these lights were being brought on by a defective passenger occupancy sensor. Sadly, BMW doesn't sell simply the sensor, however slightly the complete backside seat cushion for a cool $1200. Properly I did not need to try this. So I managed to make it by means of many a month with these annoying warning lights till sooner or later I happened upon a listing on a salvage car parts site that was promoting a standalone seat sensor! I snatched up the half and then spent a whole day switching them out. In researching the best way to get into the seats I used to be unable to search out a lot of something useful on this forum so I figured I ought to write up this DIY to assist others out. 1. Take away the seat (duh). You may use the T50 bit to take away all four screws holding the seat down. Once unfastened, go to the trunk and disconnect the battery. Back in the cabin, push the chair back so you'll be able to see underneath and disconnect the yellow wiring harness. There is a black tab on the aspect which you could match a small screwdriver in. Pull that tab out as far as it is going to go, then pull out the wiring harness. There is a separate wire connector on high too: squeeze the sides to release it and disconnect that too. Now pull the seat out of the automotive. This is simpler when you additionally take the headrest off. 2. Now you are going to have to take away the plastic cowl on the righthand facet of the seat that has the seat controls on it. This piece is held on with 5 plastic tabs: Three are visible on the underside of the piece and a pair of are hidden inside close to the highest. I was capable of get all however the righthand inside tab using just my fingers. To get that last tab I had to bend a hook form into a piece of thick wire and fish that through to the tab and pull the tab while pulling up on the entire piece. That was tough. As soon as off, you may see easy methods to controls are wired up, just unplug them so you'll be able to remove the trim fully. 3. As soon as the outer plastic trim is off, you'll be confronted with a second plastic piece. To take away this there's only one bolt (T30) and then you definately just must wiggle it around until it pops off. There are some wires connected to this piece with a plastic rivet which doesn't appear to be it is meant to come off so I left this piece still partially attached to the seat. 4. Next, there's another plastic trim piece on the opposite aspect of the seat on the again nook. Use the T20 bit to remove the screw, and pull the piece off. 5. There's now only one last piece of trim left, and it is a ache. It is the lower plastic piece on the front of the chair. You'll see that there are three attachment points. The outer two are simple: simply depress the outward going through tab with a small screwdriver and pull outward on the piece. They'll pop out. The middle attachment point is tougher because the tab you'd need to press in is definitely going through inward towards the seat so you cannot get to it. You'll be able to, nevertheless, use a small screwdriver and put the top inside the attachment point, angling it in order that it catches on the tab on the inside, and pull the piece downward. It's going to come off finally. 4. Now it's time to start removing the leather-based! The purpose of eradicating all this plastic trim was to be in a position to simply and totally remove the complete seat cushion. Word how all around the seat the leather-based is stitched to this plastic lip. Now that we've removed all the trim, you can pull this plastic lip off of its hold on the seat frame. There's one long piece for all the entrance, one medium piece within the again, and two short items, one on either again facet of the chair. Also make sure you undo the little bits on the back corners where the leather is held by a plastic button and is stretched over a metallic nub. Now we are able to pull the again flap via the hole in between the higher and decrease halves of the chair after which, from the again forward, pull the cushion up. There's just one final point of attachment: just earlier than the leg extension there is a plastic rib that's hooked up to the seat frame. This rib is simply held in by some metal tabs, you can start on one finish and pull up and it'll come out. 5. Now for the true fun part: we have to remove the leather from the foam cushion in order that we will get on the occupancy sensor. On the underside of the cushion, beginning from the back, you'll see many metallic hogties. I used a pair of pliers to remove them. Just pinch the ring and switch it till the ends are dealing with you, then pull them apart and take away the ring. There are 4 on the skin of the cushion to take away. Then on the inside you will must take away a bunch extra. I did eleven rings in whole, I believe. Once you get get deep sufficient between the foam and the leather, you can absolutely take away the previous sensor. It's glued in on the front and on both side bolsters. 6. Put in your new sensor! I glued mine again in with some Gorilla Glue Gel. Watch out because not much appears to stick to that foam. I probably went by way of 4-5 totally different glues earlier than I found the Gorilla Glue. 7. It's all downhill from right here. Now it's essential to reattach the leather-based to the foam. To do this, I used zip ties. Just put them in the exact spots the place you eliminated the steel rings. For a number of the more difficult elements to get a zip tie in place, I was capable of push my metallic wire by the opening and use it as a information for the zip tie. 8. Reattach that sucker back to the seat body. Nothing too difficult right here, simply take it slow and go in the reverse from earlier than. It's going to all fit. Don't forget to plug in your new seat sensor to the chair. 9. Reinstall the chair. Overall this mission took me about 6-8 hours. Eradicating the plastic trim is tough, removing the hog rings is a ache, and getting the leather-based reattached to the foam takes time. That mentioned, it is all utterly doable with minimal instruments. I've written this up as greatest I can, but I am certain I ignored a number of steps.

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